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06.16.2005 -- LUANG PRABANG - LAOS --
Laos: Rice Whiskey and the Rolling Stones!
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We are currently in Vientiane Laos. Since our last journal entry, we have been to Sa Pa, Vietnam; Luang Prabang, Laos and Muang Ngoi Neua, Laos.
Let's just sum it up as the last two weeks have been excellent. Sa Pa is a mountain town with lots to offer. We totally recommend a trip there if you go to Vietnam. While we were there, we went for a 3 day 2 night trek in the villages nearby. We literally hiked though terraced rice patties and stayed in the homes of villagers that farmed those rice patties. The second night, we stayed in the Ban Ho Village with the village leader or as our guide put it "the boss". The first night we stayed in the Ta Van village and had a bit of Vietnamese fire water. Rice whiskey isn't bad.
At the first village, we went down to the river and hung out while the guide prepared our dinner. In the process, Todd stepped on a rock that promptly rolled out from under him. He fell straight on his back landing on the rock. It still hurts today. No major damage as he still has feeling in his toes and can move his legs. At the house we stayed, there were two sons (ages 8 and 11)and the younger one was a sticker junkie. We gave him a couple stickers and it was over after that. He kept coming back to us, while pointing to his shirt and saying with a big smile "hello, hello". We also got out our glow in the dark frisbee (thanks Jenn and Steve) and played frisbee for hours. This was the first time our guide had ever seen a frisbee - let alone one that lit up at night.
During our trek, there were so many things that we noted or found interesting... some of these include: the young kids (mostly the boys) were in charge of watching the water buffalos... they would ride them all day long. So you have a 40 - 50 lb kid riding a 2000 lb water buffalo. Some other things included - the people are incredibly tough. They get up at 4:00 am and work until 9:00 am and have lunch, a siesta and go back to work in the late afternoon. They carry large loads up and down the mountains on their shoulders and heads. Most of the time they are barefoot and the rest they are in flimsy flip flops.
At the Ban Ho village (second night), Maggie was in heaven, as the "boss" had a cool dog that had lots of cool dog friends that liked Maggie. They followed us to the waterfall and swimming hole climbing rocks to get there. The favorite was a little brown puppy who held his own with the big dogs. Maggie insists they don't eat dogs in that village!!!
In Laos, we went up to Luang Prabang. It is a hang out town. It is very laid back, still quite French (French colony at one time), and a little too touristy. But we enjoyed it immensely. Food is awesome. We hung out at a book store quite a bit and went to the night market... but did not purchase anything there. We caught up on a couple movies... Life Aquatic and Ray. It was a bit of comfort - like being at home.
Muang Ngoi Neua, Laos was a little different. We stayed in a Bamboo hut for 3 nights overlooking the Nam Ou river. It was $1 a night by the way. However, for one dollar you got a toilet about 40 yards away and electricity from 6 pm to 10 pm - if you are lucky. Hot water does not exist except for tea, coffee and soup. In other words - cold shower which was just fine because of the heat.
On day one we hooked up with some Brits and Israelis and did a full day trek up to some other villages and a water fall. On the way, Maggie had a friend - or two actually. There are leaches here and Todd lucked out. But he did have to pull them off Maggie as she wussed out. It also rained while we were up at the waterfall making the trek back down to the boat a mudslide. In addition, Todd broke through one of the wooden bridges. Thankfully, he has broad shoulders to catch himself. We hope Todd makes it home in one piece. There was no harm on this one. It was a nice day in all - We had a great guide - Muen.
On day two, the Brits - Paula and Sam joined us again. We went kayaking on the Nam Ou. It is not a rough river... more like canoeing than kayaking. It was a 2 man boat with no spray skirt. We stopped at a Village and had a fun time of it coming down the river bank as it rained most of the morning. That night we hung out with our guide - Pet - and Muen and had beers and Rice Whiskey which is called here - Lao Lao.
Leaving the next morning was pure comedy - it had been pouring all night and the way down to the boats is MUDDY!!! All the village kids were lined up at the top of the hill watching all the foreigners slip sliding down the hill - we were a muddy, wet bunch on the way back! We forgot to mention above that the only way into the village is by boat.
On the way back to Luang Prabang, we took a vehicle referred to as a "bus". However, it is basically a big pickup outfitted with benches (about 8 feet long) and roof as well as a metal rack that sticks out the back (like a tailgate). At one point, there were 22 people, a pig (small pig) and a chicken with two chicks on board - not to mention a boatload of luggage strapped to the roof. The best part was skidding to a stop to pick more people up. After you have 15 people on the thing, you would think he wouldn't stop anymore... think again! Todd stood on the tailgate with an Aussie (Jim) for most of the trip (all but 10 minutes of a 5 hour ride). The pig was on the roof and at one point, it pooped. Todd watched it roll slowly back towards him until thankfully it rolled off the side.
We have to go now. We are headed south to Pakse tonight. Hope you are all doing well.
-- Todd & Maggie
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