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09.15.2005 -- AREGNETINA: great steak, yerba mate and BRAZIL: Sao Paulo --
Argentina: great steak, yerba mate and Brazil: Sao Paulo
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October 6, 2005
So, we bought these tea "mugs" in China because they seemed like a practical souvenir we could use throughout the trip. The Argentinians have shown some interest in them. Their matè "mugs" are a little different. The Chinese tea "mugs" are basically a small Nalgene bottle that keeps liquid hot for a long time. They have a removable filter, so you just put your loose tea in, add water and replace the filter. We've had a tight hold of these, as the Argentinians are eyeing them! For their matè, which is a tea from the coca leaves, they use a small cup made from wood or a hollowed out gourd. They pour in some loose leaves, add water and drink it through a metal straw that has a filter on the end of it. It's pretty strong and we're not big fans of matè, yet!
Anyway, if you haven't figured out by now, we are in Argentina. We're seriously considering never coming back to the US! Ok, maybe never is too strong! Let's just say that we love Argentina! We are currently in the Tucuman bus station waiting for a night bus to Mendoza. The bus stations are hopping here. This one has a little mall inside...so, we have lots to look at while we wait for the bus. The buses in Argentina are pretty posh! They are mostly double deckers and have nice, comfy seats that recline with ample leg room. They serve meals and drinks and we even played Bingo on the last bus...in Spanish.
It's said that Argentine beef is the best in the world and based on our experience so far, it just might be true...wow! Todd's cholesterol is rising by the second with all the steak, fries and eggs he's eating...all in one meal. While Maggie is enjoying the beef, she's on the hunt for veggies. Veggie are a bit hard to come by unless you cook your own food.
We need to back-track a bit as we haven't added a journal entry since Capetown. After Capetown, we went to Stellenbosh (sp?). We stayed with Wilma and Neville, a couple we met in Thailand. Then we rented a car and headed to the Garden Route.
Before we headed out of Cape Town, we had a bit of brain damage due to the Brazilian Embassy. Costs a lot to get a visa for Brazil and even more if you get your visa in S. Africa.
During our trip on the Garden Route out to Storm's River, we found that South Africa's box wine isn't so bad. We are proud to say we got "great" box of wine ... as far as a box of wine can get. Anyway, on our way to Storm's River, we stopped in Knysna, and did a bit of hiking. The area is absolutely beautiful with fantastic forests and breath taking bluffs over looking the ocean. We did a bit of whale watching on our way as well.
We stayed in Storm's River for 4 nights. Our lodging consisted of a tent on a raised (about 4 feet high) wooden deck with a mattress inside. It was a cheap way of getting a double room. The place is called Tube and Axe, and is owned by a couple of young guys that seemed to be having a good time with the place. They had made many improvements and had plans for many more. They also had a philanthropic angle as they employed many native south Africans as well as had multiple groups trade off by coming over and signing various songs for the people that were staying there. It was a nice touch.
Regarding double rooms, they usually cost more than a bunk... which we hoped to have outgrown a long time ago, but recently learned we have not. Double are also better because you need worry less about theft. Most often theft is the whim of other travelers apparently. Regardless, since we blew our budget in Africa, we have made up a little with bunks every so often.
We returned to Cape Town (and stayed in bunks) before we flew to Brazil. Our first stop was Sao Paulo. We spent two nights there, but there really is no reason to ... it is not a highly desirable tourist destination in general. However, we had a couple errands to run regarding a Brazilian child Maggie sponsors. So, we saw a bit of Sao Paulo and it is huge!!! Lots and lots of people.
>From Sao Paulo, we took a bus to Rio De Jinero. We did all the standard tourist sight seeing. The Christo is pretty amazing ... from up close, from far away, at night, etc. We also enjoyed the beaches, the lake, Sugarloaf, etc. Sugarloaf is an overlook you get to by a huge gondola where you can see basically all the best parts of Rio. Wee were lucky to have visited the Christo and Sugarloaf on our best day. It rained every other day we were in Rio. In other words, we never went to the beach to hang out or get a swim.
That said... Rio's beaches and the rest of Brazil has a reputation for crime. If you go to the beach, you take nothing with you, because chances are you won't come home with anything you bring. We arrived on a Saturday and we were too tired to join the large crew going out for the evening.... evenings start at midnight by the way. It was just as well that we passed, because of the 20 people that went, no less than 3 were robbed in some fashion. A drunken Norwegian guy, got beaten (not badly) before they took his money. He woke up a bit sore the next day.
Poverty in Brazil is not much different than in South Africa. There are people with plenty of money and those with nothing. In Rio, they called the lower income areas - Favellas. In South Africa they called hem townships... we might call them shanty towns, projects or hoods in the US. We stayed in the nicer areas and enjoyed the Favellas from a distance... and you could see them in several places right in Rio. The hostel actually had tours to go and visit a Favella. We considered it, but had plenty of other things we wanted to do before we left Rio - which was pretty quick.
Like S. Africa, Brazil is more expensive than we were hoping. Having heard our dollars go further in Argentina, we headed for Foz de Aguazu, one the the worlds natural wonders. It is a waterfall on the boarders of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. As we managed to get here in rainy season, the falls were roaring. We saw it from both the Brazil and Argentina sides. If you are planning a visit, the Argentina side was better by far.
We made our way to Salta, which has some great Spanish Colonial architecture and plenty of nearby attractions, like salt flats and ranches. However, after 2 days, we dropped down to Cafayette, which we enjoyed a bit more. It is a small tourist town with lots of character and wineries. Starting to sound like winos, we imagine... if the shoe fits. The drive to Cafayette is spectacular. It is very much like parts of Utah and the southwestern US.
We are on our way to another wine center called Mendoza. Some say the Argentina is going to surpass Chile in wine quality... we'll let you know.
Cheers.
-- Todd & Maggie
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